GUIDE TO SURFING WEST JAVA
INTRODUCTION
- CURRENT CONDITIONS
- SAFETY TIPS FOR TRAVELERS
- DESCRIPTION OF AREA AND SURF SPOTS
- TRAVEL TIPS
- SURFER COMMENTS
- SUMMARY
This news bulletin is available free of charge & is for those persons wishing to travel to West Java, notably the province of Sunda, which takes in the following surfing areas, Pelabuhan Ratu Bay, Bayah & on to Panaitan, Dili & Tinjil Islands.
The village of Pelabuhan Ratu is some 150-km directly south of Jakarta & it takes some 3-4 hours to travel there, by car from the airport. If you go by train, bus and finally bemo, it will take you about six to seven hours. The Pelabuhan Ratu Bay faces the Indian Ocean with a southwesterly aspect & is approx. 45 km wide & 60+ km long. Pelabuhan Ratu translates into Harbor Queen; being called that in respect of the Goddess of the South Sea's , known to the Sudanese people as Nyai Loro Kidul.
Yet throughout Java she is more popularly known as, Ratu Rara Kidul. The legend had its beginnings in the 16th century with the Mataram Islamic kingdom, where it is believed she gave the island of Java to Prince Senopati, who founded the kingdom of Mataram. This gift was on the condition that the prince & all his heirs perform a marriage ceremony with Ratu Rara Kidul, before taking a mortal wife, thus ensuring Ratu Rara Kidul's status as the 1 st wife. Even after the kingdom split in the 17th century all Sultans, Kings & Princes of Java, to this day, honor this requirement to take Ratu Rara Kidul as their 1st wife. The fishermen throughout Indonesia celebrate the queen's birthday on their New Years Day – 1 Suro in the Javanese calendar. (this is in April - May). These celebrations include sacrifices (korban) which are taken out to the sea & blessed by the local religious leader. Superstition has it that if the sacrifice sinks quickly, the queen is happy with the gift & the seas will be safe & plentiful for the year to come.
1. CURRENT CONDITIONS
WEATHER CONDITIONS
The dry season is the main surfing season & is approximately from April through to October. Most days have clear skies, with a temperature range of 25 to 37 deg. C; nights are cooler & with pleasant sea breezes. The on shore wind normally starts about 11 am. & drops of most afternoons 4 p.m. So both morning & afternoon surfing sessions are possible.
The wet season is from November through to March, while the surf is less reliable, there are still waves to be had. The rains after the initial change in season, generally settle into an afternoon rain period of 1 – 2 hours & temperatures are cooler. WAVES – the typical swell direction is southerly, it is large & good waves are to be had all around the bay.
Cimaja river, which is located 60 – 100 mts, to the east of the normal take off point, the 6 – 8 ft. swell is providing good waves, with good barrels, with a possibility for long rides, 150 + mts. The waves in this part of West Java are really under-rated. Indo Surfer magazines like "Surf Time" have been starting safaris with photographers and pro-surfers in this area recently. There are waves here that are some of the best in Indonesia, and like any place else it's just timing.
Before heading off it's always a good idea to start checking the surf producing lows and watch there cycle, e.g. on the internet at www.fnoc.navy.mil. There is always a pattern to these systems that you can more or less accurately predict when and where the swell will arrive, and its size. "We again arrived here this season in Cimaja (18 Aug. 2000) and were told it was small, but we had timed our arrival with a new swell window that we had predicted to arrive on 18 Aug. 2000 with surf ranging between 4 to 12 ft. We hit it pretty much on the mark but the swell has continued to increase through our departure day. I am up on the bar deck watching waves go off one after another. As of 23 Aug. 2000 the swell is still pumping and it should be re-enforced before the end of this week, but we won't be here to enjoy it. You'll have one of the best surf trips to Indo if you take the time to check for the lows. Our surf trip into this area saw waves until our last day here at Pelabuhan Ratu, which was still coming in at 4 – 6 ft at Cimaja." (T. Stone)
POLITICAL SITUATION
As you are aware the current political situation in Indonesia is under going change, with the country suffering first from the El Nino induced drought in 1997, which seriously affected agricultural production (this country now has to import staples such as rice) & fishing capacity, plus the collapse of the Suharto era.
There are an estimated 40 million people of Indonesia, now living below the poverty line. The situation in some more remote areas is causing many infants & older people to die due to malnutrition related problems.
The political uncertainty in the MPR government chambers in Jakarta (House of Representatives) has heightened political tensions throughout the country, but the authorities have managed to maintain control with only minor demonstrations occurring. The elections for government & President were a sucess being the most peacefull in 20 years. With the granting in 2004 a large degree of “Autonomy” to the regional governments, many aspects of the governments functions are not as reliable as under the pervious central administration. This has brought criticism from both internal & external sources of its management of the country. Many aspects of the local political scene are becoming unstable, with religious & ethnic clashes occurring in some regions around Indonesia. This uncertainty is causing higher than usual levels of crime, with foreigners also being targeted.
Because of this travelers should avoid those areas, which are close to universities & government buildings, these being in the major cities. Plus some areas of northern Sumatra, Timor, Suluwasi, Maluku & Banda Islands, are now subject to racial & religious violence. The government has made some progress in stabilizing the above area’s, with the problems in Aceh province have moved a long way to improve the region which is again considered safe for tourism.
Unfortunately due to the presence of United Nations forces in Timor, many Indonesians feel that their country has been attacked & or insulted. So emotions are generally anti foreigner particularly towards Australians. So when travelling throughout the country, care should be taken to minimize the contact with Indonesians who wish to discuss the political situation. This will help reduce misunderstandings & conflict.
Most of the fishing villages & adjacent rural areas to Pelabuhan Ratu, do not suffer from these problems, this is due to the fertile soil & plentiful fishing. But instances of petty thief have risen, this being caused by the high un-employment & shortage of ready cash. Some instances of threats of violence against Westerners has taken place in the Cimaja village, in most instances this has been driven by the theft aspect rather than simply tension against foreigners.
2. SAFETY TIPS FOR THE TRAVELER
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Avoid large gatherings of people.
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Use pre-booked transport or a provider who is known to the hotel, where you are staying. The cost of transfers from the international airport to Pelabuhan Ratu, range from Rp650,000 – Rp700,000 for a rental car that can carry 4 pax. together with baggage, the traveling time is 3 – 4 hours.If you want to travel by bus, you would have to take an airport transfer bus [DAMRI] to the city of, (Bogor) this will cost approx. +/- Rp35, 000/pax. Then get a bus that is going to Pelabuhan Ratu, via the town of Cibakdak, this leg will cost you +/-Rp25, 000/pax. There you get another small bus to the place where you wish to stay whilst in Pelabuhan Ratu ; this will cost less than Rp10, 000/pax. The total travelling time will be more than 7 hours, so bring a book & watch out for "pick pockets".
If you want to travel by train, the leg from Mangarai to Bogor can be done, the costs & travel time are similar, but trains run less frequently so long delays at the stations may occur. You also can catch the train from Jakarta (Gambir) to Bogor and hop on the bus there. Buses from Bogor leave every hour from 0500 to 2100 hours daily. Anyway don't forget to bring an Aqua bottle, as it is going to be a hot journey.
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Don't display large amounts of cash & or valuable items. Lock them in the hotel safe.
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When talking to local surfers, remember that
- They don't have a paying job,
- They live by what you give them, sometimes unknowingly,
- You are rich & so it is OK,
- Given the heightened political awareness don't get involved in political rallies or discussion, if asked why do you come to Indonesia & what do you think of the political situation, just give vague replies saying such things as beautiful country, great surf, great weather & lovely people. This really works well!
Remember you are a guest in their country & if Indonesians came to your country got drunk or abusive your own countrymen would soon start taking exception.
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When making arrangements to rent cars, motorbikes & or boats, make a point of writing down the Rupiah - $ amounts & times of hire, so that all parties, understand what you want. This will save you the experience of having; these lovely smiling people change to very unpleasant demanding merchants. Just keep in mind that they often do not speak English very well, nor you speak their language. Some "Feral" travelers take joy in short changing the drivers, despite it being quiet clear what the costs are, please don't do this as it only makes it more harder for those foreigners who come afterwards.
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Take out travel insurance for accident, medical evacuation, loss of money & or valuables. Be always ready with some cash, as hospital & all other medical services are paid in cash. Therefore hide some dollars, e.g. in your shoes.
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To make yourself better understood to the Indonesian people whom are normally very willing to assist travelers, some knowledge of the Indonesian language would be advisable & details of where you want to go will save you a lot of worries. The magazine "Indosurf & Lingo" gives good advice for travelers to this country, with a section on the language, sufficient for you to be able to ask for your normal daily needs, so consider picking up a copy at your local surf shop. The first word you might want to learn is thank you: "terima kasih". The rest comes day by day.
3. DESCRIPTION OF THE REGION & KNOWN SURF LOCATIONS
The best-known surf spot in the region is CIMAJA. This is because most other surf breaks locations, have limited accommodation, in general surfers use Cimaja as their base, during their stay in the region, hiring "Bis Angot"s (the blue bus' whom some call a "Bemo') for day trips to other spots.
The Cimaja village is about 1 km from the SAMUDRA BEACH Hotel It is a right with a reef & rock bottom and it works best with a S-SW swell direction, with a southerly swell tending to make it close out early. The "beach" consists mainly of round volcanic stones, which make a sound like the devil rolling out his marbles; (the locals call this "Batu Nungul" – banging rocks).
It makes it a bit hard on the feet & ankles when entering or leaving the water, this together with the sea urchins make booties a must, (unless you're into rock dancing). "Cimaja is a fun wave from 1.2 – 1.5mts, & produces great barrels when at 2mts. Wave heights above this to 3 – 4mts, make the conditions fast & steep, narrow gun boards work well in these swells. Cimaja is a great hot-dogging wave with a fast inside section that opens up before running into a smooth rock beach. The surf, when a constant 3 – 5 ft, seems to work best at this range. If it gets any bigger the wave is not as critical – no tubes and tends to closeout. The smaller waves are the best. This right is excellent to get warmed up before venturing off to the other more radical spots. Staying at a hotel around Cimaja and having this break in front has been perfect for our surf group. A place to rest after the long drive from Jakarta and rest up after the jet and drive lag. The wave here is worth it. Early morning is the best before the onshore wind comes up, and breakfast is a five-minute walk away. Dawn sessions can be very likely if the ocean is glassy. A little current softly pulls you back into the lineup. There are some lazy locals and, of course, experienced surfers in the water, so the mood seems to be always hang loose. But this trip here this year allowed us to have one day of surf in front of Pondok Kencana because we decided to stay on the move everyday by speedboat. The Escape had us in various breaks throughout the area in a matter of moments. It was an added expense but one well worth it if you really want to surf this vast coastline. You can check and arrange for the use of this boat (with two 200 hp. Suzuki's) through Pondok Kencana ." (T.Stone)
TO THE WEST OF CIMAJA
To the west of Cimaja (+/-0.5 km) is INDICATOR POINT (called that because when in the line up at Cimaja, you can look across at the point, to make your wave selection), It has a shallow coral bottom, which works well with heavy swell (2 mts. +) & a high tide. But be careful as it can suck hard, so any spills will put you on the coral, a helmet is a good idea, (or hard core – hard head!). Indicator Point is a place for those who are looking for a fast track racing wave. Surfing this place requires a surfer's complete attention. It works best at a mid to high tide, and can take a fairly large swell. It's a long wall with a constant tube that shuts down in front of a small beach after a 150 – 200 m down the line drive. If you want a speedy workable wave you'll find it here when the conditions are right.
Across the Cimaja river mouth & around the point (approx. 3-400 Mts. further west) is a small left hander called KARANG PAPAK , (there is a football field nearby) this is a fun wave, which is good when Cimaja & Indicators are crowded or closing out. You can get there with a 'Bis Angot" for approx. Rp 5,000,- or walk along the beach & paddle across the river.
Further along (2km from Cimaja) is KARANG HAWU (sometimes called SUNSET BEACH). This is a beach break which can give short fun rides when Cimaja is closed out, but watch out for the under tows – rips, as they can be strong & unpredictable. Sunset Beach offers rights and lefts, but the lefts tend to be better.
Moving further west, just before the road turns inland (approx. 100 mts. from the Camat's office/house) on the road to the village of CISOLOK, there is a small dirt track which continues straight ahead where, some times a beach break will from, just near the river mouth. It's best with a westerly swell direction.
The following locations can be reached by rental car, or with a rented "Bis Angot" as the local bus services stop at Cisolok. For the adventurous, you can get on an overloaded mini bus to other regional villages, but they won't wait to bring you back to your hotel. The cost for rental cars range from Rp200, 000 – Rp450, 000 per day, the actual amount being based on the duration of hire, if they have to wait to bring you back "Pergi – Pulang" (go & come home).
Your hotel will assist you in settling a price, but it's normal to have to bargain hard & expect extra claims.
CIKEMBANG is a small bay at the west-end of the Pelabuhan Ratu bay, just past the river at Cisolok. There are four spots here, one at the village at the base of the mountains, then two on the east end of this bay & the fourth on the west end of the bay.
The first break is located at the village of KARANG CIBANG HAJI, which is located directly at the bottom of the steep rise in the road. You have to keep a sharp lookout for the dirt track on the left of the sealed road (hard to call it a main road, but it is). The track goes in about 100 mts. & stops at a sea wall. To the left is the small fishing village & to the right is a small rock point where short rides (left & right) are possible, if you walk/paddle around the larger point you come to the KARANG HAJI break.
Back at the main road you now continue westerly up a very steep rise, at the top there are some houses, then the road starts to drop down, again on the left side there is a sealed driveway marked "OCEAN QUEEN". This very steep driveway is the access to a beach resort hotel by that name. As they restrict access to quests only, you must park you car either at the top on the "main road" (jalan raya) or just inside the entry gates at the bottom of the hill.
At the entrance gates you walk to the left beside the fence line, though the bush to the Karang Haji point break. It is a clean wave, which wraps around a large rock, then goes between two large rocks about 60+ mts apart, this wave can give fun rides up to 100 mts.
The second break is the beach break, which is within the resort Ocean Queen Hotel & has some waves with a south direction swell, but in season the swell is S.W., so this break normally closes out, even in light swell conditions.
Onward westerly the road first drops back down to sea level for about 4 kms. The more adventurous surfers have been renting small fishing boats, which take them out to the point near the mouth of the Cibereno River. This break has been rated better & just as consistent as Cimaja & is known as SUWARNA (One colour). The road then rises again & just past the aircraft radio antennas on top of the hill, there is a view across to the western side of the Cikembang Bay. From here you can see the beach break right at the base of the hill & the small point break located at the far west corner, these breaks are simply known as CIKEMBANG. The access to these breaks is via two private driveways, both of which are very steep & dangerous. At this time the "Bis Angot" driver will, if he has any sense, refuse to drive down to the bottom, so don't push him! If you are in a 4-wheel drive car, with a driver you can trust, then you may wish to risk a ride down. But there may be some points in the road where the driver will ask you to get out & walk (better only one person in the car if it goes over the edge). Sometimes a self-appointed toll collector will ask for some entrance fee, Rp5, 000 should be enough for each car.
There are no shops or restaurants located in this bay, but if you ask the local fishermen are willing to cook you some boiled rice (nasi) & BBQ some fish (Ikan Bakar) right there on the beach. Note the sport of surfing is not new here, as the editor of this new's letter, has witnessed the children of the fishermen (orang nelayan) surfing on 8" x 1" planks of wood, (Papan) even getting up & successfully making turns.
Lots further west there are largely unknown areas, as road access has only been possible for some 4 years. Previously only stone tracks gave access to fishing villages, coconut & rubber plantations, (kebon kelapa & kebon karet).
Still within the range of a day trip is a break called BATU MUROB. To get there, continue westerly along what is now a mountainous ridge road, to a place, which has a large rubber plantation & a school called SMP CIJENKOL. At the school there is a left turn, & a very narrow sealed road, which descends steeply heading towards the fishing village of CIBORENO. At sea level you are now heading in an easterly direction & you will come to a small river, which opens out in to a picturesque bay with sandy beach. This bay is almost blocked of at the sea, by a big rock outcrop, - Batu Murob - with a reef ledge extending from the right side. When the swell is big, sufficient water comes through the opening between the cliff & the rock outcrop to form a nice clean wave giving short fun rides. For bigger wave action, take the beach access to the right, where you will come to the reef area, which is directly exposed to the swell. Back at the road there are some small shops (Warung) at which you can buy basic food & drinks. If you look to the east you can see a very dilapidated bridge, which you may have some second thoughts about even crossing on foot, let alone in 4 wheel drive vehicles, like the locals do. This road leads on to Cibareno, some 8 ? 10 kms. As yet we don't have any information about this road (still scared of the bridge!) but this is the road access to the SUWANA break.
If you miss the turn off at the school, the road continues to rise to a village called GUNUNG BATU (Mountain Stone), then drops steeply back down to sea level. The views from here are of many potential reef breaks, which have yet to be explored. At the bottom of the hill, there is a dirt track (hairpin turn) which goes back in the easterly direction to Cibareno, but you need something better than a "Bis Angot".
Beyond this point the surfer, has to have more plans about where to stay & how he is going to get his meals & drinks, as it is now getting out of the range of day trips. If you want to go local, you can, but there are no cold drinks, western toilets etc. By taking a local guide from Cimaja, for trips further west, you will get the benefit of local knowledge & lots of good assistance when looking for accommodation & meals. Yes, you can sleep on the beach, but take your "Rid Ointment" ,anti malarial tablets & possibly some good Chinese medicine for cuts & diarrhea.
From where the road drops down to the sea level, it is some 15 kms to the village of BAYAH. In this distance there are a number of coral reefs, which can give fast waves, but much of these breaks have yet to searched out, so there is a chance for the patient surfer to have waves which few people have ever tried. At Bayah the road comes to a Tee intersection, turn left, not far along the road in the direction of CIHARA , there is grove of coconut trees on the beach side of the road. If you look carefully there is a point break, which breaks right over a coral reef. The here is a typical coral sandy beach & there are some small huts ("Pondok's") available for rental over night, (but you will have to bring everything with you). This location should be good for early morning sessions, before the wind starts.
At the village of Cihara, the adventurous can make a change from surfing & go mountaineering, in the direction of GUNUNG NYUNGGUN (access is also possible from the north side of the mountain). This is a special area for a race of people, known as the "Badui" people, whose origins are thought to be from southeast China, Vietnam. These people are known for their total dependence on only natural ways of life - rejecting electricity, machines, cars etc. Permits are required to enter this area & visitors should be respectful of their way of life & they will welcome you to visit their quiet idyllic village.
Continuing in a westerly direction, you will get to a small village called CILANGKALIAN which has a bus terminal, with a small block of warung,s on the left - hand side of the road. There is a road on the left side, with a no left turn sign, but this is where we want to go! If you start going up hill again, you're on the wrong track. Turn back & go through the bus terminal. This is the road to the fishing village of MUARA BINUANGE, from here you can set up base at the local hotel by the river. This is where the serious game fishermen come to stay & fish, so no nightlife, not much talk about surfing. There is a good sized river which opens into a coral reef bay, this gives safe anchorage for boats & ships, with a reef break just to the east of the river mouth. But this is not why we brought you here. It's so you can rent a boat (this is where you're local Cimaja guide, will really come in handy ? the locals don't even speak Indonesian).
With this boat you are within 1/2 hours travelling time of PULAU DILI & PULAU TINGIL, these are both restricted islands which do not allow human beings on to them, because they are used to raise laboratory grade monkeys in a contamination free zone. On the west&south sides of both islands, they are directly exposed to the full swell from the Indian Ocean&so receive good waves. The writer of the "Indo Surf&Lingo" magazine confirms that the surf here can be good, But the authorities that run this facility, will take very strong action to prevent anyone coming on to the island. This is because the introduction of human viruses could wipe this multi-million dollar industry. So if you do go there make sure you have a reliable boat,&be prepared for lots of hassles if you get washed up on the beach. We recommend you bring your bigger boards&lots of drinking water, plus some snack foods, because the weather can blow up quickly&you may have to anchor in the lee of the island till it's safe to go back to Muara Binuange. The cost of renting these boats varies greatly with the style&size of the boat, you can get seaworthy craft from Rp2, 500,000 ~ Rp3, 500,000 / 24 hour day, these rentals can include basic Indonesian food&sweet tea, if you negotiate this in the deal.
Now we are going back to the bus terminal & we turn left, west again, with the road rising again into the mountains. The road goes inland quiet away, bypassing the UJUNG KULON Game Reserve (Ujung = Point, Kulon = West in Javanese language), the white Java rhinoceros is still alive here & many other animals. To visit this reserve you must make bookings & obtain entry permits from the Indonesian Forestry department. The department that manages this reserve is called Wanawisata Tours & can be contacted in Jakarta on 021 5700238, 5710392 fax 5701141. Or in Labuhan on 0253 - 81217. Boat transfers to the reserve can be got in either Jakarta or Labuhan, with the operator providing 3 day package tours complete with transfers & meals.
Another boat that departs from West Java is the "Just Dreaming" which is operated by the Surf Travel company who can be contacted in Australia on 02 - 95274722 or fax 95274522. This company provides packaged tours of appox. 1 week duration giving access to Panaitan Island & other surf spots on the south west coast of Sumatra.
Yet for surfers we are heading to the village of LABUAN (Harbor), from here we can rent a boat to go out to PULUA PANAITAN. Boats here cost much the same as those rented before, but there are more choices of boats as tourism here is larger. On the south side of the Panaitan Island, there is the "ONE PALM POINT" surf break on the west side of a small bay, with two fast breaks on the east side of the same bay. Because the Java Sea in almost land locked, & has little tidal movement, there are huge tidal currents here in the Sunda Strait as the Indian Ocean & the Java Sea try to balance levels. These currents are so fast that the fishermen will not try to move against them, so before you go out understand what the tide time windows are & provision for them, as you can not simply go when you wish.
If we were to continue going in the same direction, we would eventually get back to Jakarta. But the surfing is now very limited, of interest however is the KRAKATAU volcano, which exploded & sent a tidal wave of 10 mts high (what a wave!), that got as far as France, this happened on 27 August 1883. On shore, some witness' reported the wave as rising to 30 mts.! But even though the volcano is active again & at times throws lumps of rock lava, the size of small trucks, the experts don't know when it will do it again, but they are sure it will erupt again.
TO THE EAST OF CIMAJA
Now we have had a few days relaxing backing Cimaja, we are going to venture east & south around the Pelabuhan Ratu bay. Because the mountains come right down to the sea, on this side of the bay, there are fewer locations known, simply due to the difficulty of access.
As we drive through the village of Pelabuhan Ratu, before we get to township proper, there is a small point break called KARANG SARI (karang = shell, sari = essence), which is a nice wave which works when Cimaja is to big & closing out. It is a right coming from a rocky point on to a sandy beach, a good training wave, but at times the bacteria levels are high, so watch out for ear & throat infections. This break can be accessed by "Bis Angot", but all further breaks will need a hire car & in some instances a boat
So onward eastward, to the Tee intersection at BAGABAGAN, then left over the big suspension at the CITARIK (water that pulls) RIVER, then onward up the hills, keeping a lookout for a marker stone on the right side of the road, some 5 kms after the village of Bagabagan. This is the first vehicle accessible break, which is called PANTAI LOJI; it's a lefthander, which can give a good wave, with a large westerly swell direction. So when Cimaja is big a closing out, many of the locals head for Loji's where they know a long 120 - 150 mt. ride is possible.
As we get back on the road, we turn right, you are now heading southward, towards UJANG GENTING, (this roughly translates into "END of WORLD") which from Loji's is about a two hour drive over some of the most beautiful mountainous country in the region, so bring your camera. The road was good & sealed, but now is totally ruined due to heavy trucks & the lack of maintenance. It runs all the way into the harbor, which was an old World War II; Japanese military installation, the old jetty & barracks are still there. At the harbor there is an outer reef break to the left of the harbor entrance, to get there, walk around the harbor to the point.
Now if we drive back the way we have come, but instead of turning right on the main road, we continue parallel to the coral beach along a dirt track till we come to the well known MAMA'S LOSMAN & PONDOK HEXA. "In front of these losman is a difficult reef break. This break is rideable, but be cautious because it can be a very dangerous break. It has an easy take off zone with a nice long wall before it hooks around into the inside section where things really start to happen. The inside can be treacherous. It is a fast long tube that backs down after 150m where you can exist before you hit some fairly shallow reef. Don't surf this spot alone cause you may find yourself in need of assistance that might not be there. It is best at 6' ft., but can be ridden on smaller days. You can paddle out from Mama's through a small pass through the reef, or take a short walk down the beach and paddle out in a small boat channel, that brings you out to the peak from the backside. Remember that the take off is easy but watch that inside section. I speak from experience after thinking I could duck-dive a section and found myself on dry reef, a cut up hand and some ding repair to do. Choose your board right before going out, because it's a long paddle back for another board. The take off and most of the wave has good water depth. This is a wave that a surfer dreams of." (T.Stone)
Most people when they are here want to park the car at the losman & rent an "Ojek" (motorbike for about Rp50, 000)& have the driver take you to PANTAI KURA - KURA = TURTLES BEACH, which is about 1 km further along the beach. Don't send the bike driver back, he will wait & bring you back to your car. The Turtles break is marked by the three large steel pipes which take seawater via a pumping station on the beach to a prawn farm, because of this, again surfers must be careful about ear & throat infections. Turtles when going off is a solid 4 - 6 ft. with a slight side offshore wind direction. You have to get this place early, but if you're late as we were you still will not be disappointed. Long tube rides and some gnarly sections. No backing off if you want to surf here. It's pedal to the metal if you want to surf this racetrack." Bring water and a good cameraperson because you're going to wish you had this is a place for photo opt's to the max. The access into the break is over the reef is not all that difficult. The reef is flat and if you time it right the paddle out is a piece of cake. The ride by boat can be long if you don't get one that does 20 knots or better. The other option is to hire a car and do a 2 - 3 hour drive, or do as we decided to do because the surf is so great; hire the car and driver for 24 hours; leave in the late afternoon and arrive there in the early evening. Get a goodnight's sleep and get in the water at first light. Our thoughts are, is that if you want to have maximum surf time with no crowds then put the few dollars to hire a fast boat that will get you to any of 6 good breaks in a matter of minutes." (T.Stone)
If you what to look at what other breaks are available here, you will have to stay over night at one of the losmen (motel), the costs vary from Rp50, 000 upward per night. This season we opted to stay at Kencana and boat out every morning which was the best thing we could have. Our return every evening to Kencana was one of leisurely comfort - food, drink, conversation, hot showers, and a good nights sleep
As to get to the best known break on this side of the bay, OMBAK TUJUH (Waves Seven) it takes a considerable amount of time. Some surfers rent Ojek's to travel overland to Ombak Tujuh's. This will take a considerable effort & time (so very early wakeup & go), as you must travel through the plantations, occasionally crossing small creeks. This method of access is definitely not worth a try in the rainy season, this trip will cost some Rp80 - 150,000 for the motor bike hire, don't forget to bring food & drink. "The surf at Ombak Tujuh as of 23 Aug 2000 is ranging between 8 - 12 ft. with a more south-southwesterly direction and has held steady through out our stay here. Steep and hollow drops were the happening thing for all our surf sessions here. If you want stand up tubes on big waves this is it. Full green rooms that won't be forgotten too soon. You need a boat to access this break. And if you catch it right with a big swell you won't be disappointed, but leave your small boards on the boat because you're not going to catch any of those waves with anything less then a 7'6". You're surfing in front of a ledge, but don't let that chase you away; it's not as bad as it looks. If you really want to test your skills paddle out to the outside section, this will no doubt be unforgettable if you survive. This outside section is for really good surfers and can be deadly so do heed. This place has to have a big swell to work so if you find surf that's running 4 ft. at Cimaja then you might want to arrange transport out to this place, but make sure it is a fast boat. Be very clear that this place is definitely a big wave break so leave your 6'0, 6'6" and all those other short boards at home because you'll need a big board if you want to get into one these waves. Remember this is a big wave that has the power of Hawaiian waves and can hold you down for quite some time so be smart and use the right equipment, because there are no lifeguards out here." (T.Stone)
If you can share the costs, its best to rent a boat ( this will cost +/- Rp 3.,500,000 to Rp 4,000,000 a day form Pelabuhan Ratu or some Rp 600,000 from Ujang Genting) to take you around the points to Ombak Tujuh, where you can experience a classic wave when conditions are small elsewhere, take large boards.
4. TRAVEL TIPS
4.1 PASSPORTS & VISA'S
You should have a valid passport, which has an expiry date at least 6 months longer than your planned departure date from Indonesia.
Tourist visa's are normally issued at the port of entry & are valid for 30 days (not 1 month), all other types of visa's must be applied for in the country that the traveler embarked from. For more information on this ask your travel agent.
It is a good idea to make a copy of the front page of your passport & the page with the visa stamp, that way you don't have to give your original documents if asked for them. NOTE don't lose the small white card (don't throw it away or give it to anyone) this is the one that you get when you first clear immigration, as you can not smoothly leave the country without it. If you plan to stay in the country longer than 30 days, a return flight from Jakarta to Singapore is an option. It costs you about US$160 to 200-. You can get there and back on the same day, & you have got another 30 days in Indo! If you want to stay longer, ask the hotel you are staying with to help with a letter of sponsorship, then you will be able to stay up to 180 days.
4.2 AIRLINES & TICKETING
Some of the airlines in the S.E. Asian region have poor customer service records, with many instances of over booking flights, so ensure that you confirm your flights at least 4 days before scheduled departure & insist on being given the confirmation code. You can also ask the travel agency for print out your confirmation - booking details & keep this with your travel documents
4.3 BOOKING ACCOMODATION & TRANSPORT
Your agent can assist you in making confirmed hotel & transfer bookings, for when you first arrive in Indonesia. It is recommended that unless you have a very good knowledge of the city, which you are entering that you make such pre-booked arrangements. If you are then intending to travel throughout Indonesia, ask the management of your hotel, to give you some advice & assistance. While not trying to cause undue concern there have been instances of "rental car drivers" setting up robberies of the tourists by taking them down deserted roads, or simply extorting extra money. Worst of all, there have been some kidnapping of foreigners, with the intent to demand ransom, these have occurred in the Jakarta area & mainly with people leaving bars late at night & entering the first taxi. Consider booking through a surf travel company that has package deals set up that are all inclusive (transport, meals, lodging, etc.). There are so many details that can be handled by the resort or surf camp that can be a nightmare if you don't know the people and place. You're here to surf, so just let someone who knows their stuff, take care of your needs. If you are traveling on your own, consider going a known surf spot, stay there a week, talk to other surf travelers you may pick up some good tips before setting of on your travels.
4.4 MONEY & TRAVELLERS CHEQUES
The banking services in Indonesia are improving & travelers now have access electronic banking to draw cash amounts, from ATM machines & only some banks will give cash advances, speak to your bank before leaving home. In the larger hotels & shops they will accept most major credit cards,(Amex, Visa, Master) but no cash cards from overseas. So we are getting back to having to carry hard currency. The safest way to do this is in the form of traveler's cheques, but for those more remote areas, there is no option but to carry cash. If you bring money from overseas, it is best if you bring new large denomination notes ($50 - $100's), the preference is for US$ currency, but other currencies are also acceptable. Only exchange enough money to see you through a week & put the rest in the hotel safe.
4.5 HEALTHCARE & INSURANCE
Travelers should bring a small first aid kit that contains the following items, 1/ anti diarrhea tablets, 2/ pain fever relief tablets, 3/ malarial tablets, 4/ small dressings for cuts etc. 5/ hydrogen peroxide at 3 - 5% concentration is a good fluid for cleaning wounds or coral cuts, 6/ a soft tooth brush with HO/2 is better for getting the spikes of sea urchins out of your feet, 7/ some "wet" & "dry" antiseptic dressings & medicine.
The above is only for minor first aid, as if you clean your cuts & scratches promptly, you help to avoid the onset of tropical ulcers which once there, will take a long time to heal, plus curtail any water sports.
Indonesia is endemic with hepatitis, thyphoid, dengue & malaria fevers, with some parts (Bali & Lombok included) having Japanese encephalitis, so get your shots & have some medical insurance cover, to get you home in the event that you get ill. Cholera outbreaks are not uncommon in the "dry season" & as this is transmitted by water, ensure you use bottled water only when in remote areas.
4.6 COMMUNICATIONS
The use of reverse charge phone cards & or by operator connection, has almost completely disappeared with the collapse of the Rupiah , so be prepared to spend lots of money at the "Wartel" (shop telephone) to call home or your friends. But if you have mobile phone it very easy to obtain a local number & use it to keep in touch with family at home. The use of email is becoming more widely available, so look for hotels etc. that can give you access to this facility, note try & setup an email address at home, from which you can both send & receive messages. (Yahoo or Hotmail)
4.7 SURFING EQUIPMENT
"There are some surf shops & board repairing facilities in the Cimaja area, but these are limited. Yes you will get leg ropes & wax, but not "fin keys" or "ding repair kits", sunscreens are all imported, so most shops can not now afford to carry them, so bring sufficient for you holiday. Figure out what size surf you really want to ride and bring the right equipment. My surf quiver ranged from 6'6", 7'0", 7'6", & 8'0" and I used every one of them regularly depending where I surfed. You may think you can surf big waves with a small board, but really you're only fooling yourself. You want to surf big fast waves bring that gun because you won't regret it when you're surfing and everyone is watching. If you only bring one board, something like a 6'8'' or 7'2'' would be a good bet - depending on how big you plan to charge. As already mentioned above, booties are a must, maybe you even bring a second pair." (T. Stone)
5. Surfer comments - 23 August 2000:
Surf overall this trip has again some of the best that I have ever ridden. We spent most of our surf time at Mama's that was in the 6 - 8' ft.+ range everyday that we surfed it. The length of ride was no less then 200 - 300 meters. The waves here are fast, hollow, and unforgiving. If you have any doubts in you ability surf somewhere else, other then that you will love every minute you spend there on a good day. Remember it is a shallow reef break so be prepared for eye opening drops and tube riding time that will just blow you away.
We also surfed Sawana. A surf break 40 minutes north by our speedboat that is just a great fun wave that peels for at least 200 meters. It has a sloping face that just calls for turn after turn. Want to do some serious carving on 6' ft. walls then this is the place. It is an extremely difficult place to get to and can take hours by car or one of the village- fishing boats. If you really want to experience this wave then gather a group together and pay the cost for a good and enjoy yourself. It is worth every penny you spend. This is a very forgiving wave that breaks off of a ledge in deep water so if you don't a drop not to worry you will survive. This place that is just great for everyone no matter what your abilities are.
A note- don't waste your time trying to get to all the waves available in this area. If you really want to surf here make the proper arrangements that will provide for maximum surf time. We were surfed out everyday. Our average water time everyday was no less then 8 hours, so check what's there and surf your brains out.
(Tom Stone)
More Information at:
6. SUMMARY
This package of information has been provided, in the interests of answering queries from prospective travelers to the Indonesian Island of Java, notably West Java (Sunda Province). The information sheet will be updated & all endeavors will be made by the writers, to be factual & accurate. In no way will the authors or the owners of P.T. Lestari Mahasti Surya, or the owners, management & or staff of Hotel Pondok Kencana, accept any liabilities which may seem to have been incurred, from application of the information contained herein.
But on the other side: if you find the beauty in and out of water we are talking about, don't forget who told you first.
A personal note: Be respectful to the local people and there ways of life because it is their country. Humility will get you further then you think and you'll find that there are a lot of friends to be made. The surf spots are theirs and you are just a visitor so know your place in the line up. Also, help them see the need to keep their environment clean by stopping and picking up the litter you may see when you come out of the water. A little gesture moves mountains. (T. Stone)
We welcome input into this information sheet from visitors to the region, as this will allow us to develop this report further, so please when visiting the region leave any notes etc, with the hotel staff.
Kind regards
Leo LeaRoyd
Marketing Manager
Ph 0266-431465, 432608
Fax 431466
International access code is *** 62-266****
(Email lms@cbn.net.id)